April 11, 2002
The Ming River
Overcast and cool. The Ming River is a dark brown and the massive limestone cliffs are muted to the gray sky background. The longboat putts down the lazy river under the power of yet another smoky diesel that has seen better days and less oil. The boatman cups his head in boredom and wonders why anyone would come halfway around the world to ride in his shabby boat. The infrequent Chinese live their lives like they did last year, the year before that, ten years before that, and one hundred prior. History and technology have had a drastic impact on China, but nobody told these guys... The boats may have motors, the fish may be laced with mercury, the skies polluted by nearby smokestacks, but nature rules here. Water buffalo, chicken, fish, rice, bamboo, and hard work blend into daily life. A daily life that doesn't need a vacation, a new car, new furniture, or a therapist.
After a long day of travel I'm resting in the shadow of the Huashan Guesthouse in the riverside village of Huashan. Few cars make it to Huashan, the river provides the visitors. The visitors are mainly Chinese; noisy and lined up in chairs in front of me. I sat here alone, I even had to setup my own chair and table. Now the noisy Chinese have invaded my solitude. I don't understand the frantic, loud culture. It makes me tense. Same in Vietnam. I think after two weeks I'll be ready to abandon this noisy culture for the one that I'm comfortable with state-side.
The guesthouse is huge. Three matching buildings made of aromatic wood and intricately trimmed providing a classic Asian atmosphere. The day started like most days with difficult to order rice noodles. As usual, the meat was a mystery, maybe chicken and beef (or was it kidney?). A short bus ride later and we were looking at more redundant Vietnamese officials. This trip to the border was easier. Yes, the officials are slow, yes the people rudely pushed to the front of the line, no we were not delayed. On the Chinese side we were greeted with smiles, checked thoroughly, and let through. Next it was taxis to a town with more blank stares and difficult to order noodles , then tuk-tuks to the river, and then the lazy journey down the Ming. I'm pleasantly relaxed even as I deal with the noisy, and pushy.